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Published January 28, 2026

DMV Bill of Sale: What Your State Actually Wants

Nobody thinks about the DMV until they're standing in line with a binder of paperwork, hoping they brought the right version of the right form. If you've just bought or sold a vehicle privately, the bill of sale is often the document deciding whether you walk out with a registered title or a list of things to come back with.

Here's the uncomfortable truth: there is no single "DMV bill of sale" in the United States. Every state writes its own rules, and a few states have their own forms that can replace or supplement a generic template. The good news is that most of the time the rules are simpler than they look — and once you know what your specific DMV is scanning for at the counter, rejection becomes much harder.

This guide walks through what every DMV wants on a bill of sale, the specific states that have their own forms, the federal odometer rule almost every internet template gets wrong, and the five reasons I've seen clerks reject bills of sale most often.

The six things every DMV looks for

Whatever state you're in, whatever vehicle you're transferring, a clerk is scanning your bill of sale for the same six things. Miss any of them and the form is dead on arrival.

  1. Full legal names and addresses for both buyer and seller. Not nicknames, not "Mike" when the license says Michael. The names have to match the IDs both parties will bring.
  2. Complete vehicle identification — year, make, model, VIN. The VIN is the one the clerk actually verifies, letter by letter, against the title. A single transposed digit will stop the transfer cold.
  3. Odometer reading at the time of sale, in full miles. Not "about 80k." The exact mileage. Federal law (we'll get to that) requires a disclosure for vehicles of model year 2011 or newer.
  4. Sale price in dollars. The DMV uses this to calculate sales or use tax. Some states will challenge a suspiciously low price and substitute a "presumptive value" — more on that below.
  5. Date of sale. This starts the clock on your title-transfer deadline, which ranges from 2 business days to 60 days depending on the state; some states set no fixed day count.
  6. Signatures from both parties. Printed names and dated signatures. In a handful of states, notarization of one or both signatures is also required for the document to be recognized.

Get these six right and you've cleared the universal bar. What comes next is where states start to diverge.

Watch: what your DMV actually checks (38 seconds)

The six requirements above, shown on a real form — and the spots where clerks most often reject a submission.

States that have their own DMV form

A handful of states publish their own forms for a private sale — some are bills of sale, others are title applications or tax statements. If you're transferring a vehicle in one of these states, print both: the official state form and a detailed bill of sale as a backup record.

StateOfficial DMV formWhat it does
TexasForm 130-UTitle application (not a bill of sale)
CaliforniaREG 135Official DMV bill of sale (a bill of sale is required for some transfers)
FloridaHSMV 82050Notice of sale + bill of sale combined
New YorkMV-912 and DTF-802MV-912 is the DMV bill of sale (a bill of sale is required for a private sale); DTF-802 is the statement of transaction for sales tax
GeorgiaForm T-7Official Georgia bill of sale (untitled 1985-or-older vehicles)
OhioBMV 3770Transfer of an electronic title; seller and buyer signatures notarized

Even in these states, a good bill of sale is still worth generating and keeping. If the official form is later lost, if the state ever audits the tax you paid, or if ownership is disputed, your detailed bill of sale is the record with the fullest information.

The federal odometer rule most templates miss

The odometer disclosure is where generic internet templates fall down more often than anywhere else. Here's why it matters.

Federal rule 49 CFR §580 — the Federal Odometer Act — requires a written odometer disclosure when most motor vehicles change hands. Since January 1, 2021 (49 CFR 580.17), a vehicle of model year 2011 or newer needs a disclosure; model year 2010 and older vehicles are exempt, and from 2031 each later model year drops out 20 years after January 1 of its model year. Vehicles over 16,000 lb gross vehicle weight rating are exempt.

The disclosure has to include the reading, whether the reading is accurate, and — if not — whether the actual mileage is unknown or the odometer has rolled over. Plenty of free bill of sale templates online were written for the old 10-year rule and never updated. A model-year-2011-or-newer vehicle sold on one of them has no place to record the disclosure.

A quick sanity check: if you're transferring a vehicle whose model year is 2011 or newer and your form doesn't have a clear odometer field with a checkbox or statement about accuracy, fix that before the sale. This is why the vehicle bill of sale templates on this site include the full §580 disclosure language by default.

Why clerks reject bills of sale: the top five

Having watched this process at DMVs across several states, the same rejections come up again and again. They're almost all preventable.

1. Missing or incomplete odometer disclosure

Covered above. If the vehicle is model year 2011 or newer and there's no mileage field with a statement of accuracy, expect a rejection.

2. VIN mismatch between the title and the bill of sale

A single wrong character is enough. Copy the VIN from the title, not from what you think you remember, not from the dashboard plate. The title's VIN is the one the state will match against.

3. Sale price blank or suspiciously low

Some buyers ask the seller to write a very low number on the bill of sale hoping to lower their sales tax. It usually backfires. Texas ("standard presumptive value") and Massachusetts (book value) tax the higher of the price or that value, and North Carolina taxes a private sale on market value rather than the stated price. Put the real number.

4. Signatures missing or unsigned

Both seller and buyer must sign. If your state requires notarization, do not sign the document before you get to the notary — the notary has to witness the signing. Louisiana accepts one notarized document — the bill of sale, the invoice or the title assignment; West Virginia requires a notarized bill of sale only when the price falls well below book value; and North Dakota's notarized bill of sale (SFN 2888) is used only when no title can be provided. In Kentucky, North Carolina (NC titles), Ohio, Pennsylvania and Wyoming the notarization attaches to the title assignment rather than the bill of sale, and Oklahoma notarizes a paper title's assignment or Form 718 for an electronic title. Montana, often listed as a notary state, requires none for an ordinary private sale. Narrower cases exist too: Honolulu (Hawaii) requires a notarized bill of sale when the recorded owner has not released the title; Arizona’s Form 38-1306, used instead of the signed title, must be notarized or acknowledged by an MVD agent; Maryland used a notarized bill of sale for some below-book-value sales until September 30, 2026; and Washington requires the buyer’s title application to be notarized unless it is signed in front of a vehicle licensing agent.

More on this in the full notarized bill of sale guide.

5. Handwritten and illegible

A surprising number of bills of sale are rejected simply because the clerk can't read the handwriting on the VIN, odometer, or price line. A typed form with those critical fields printed cleanly removes this problem entirely — this is the core reason a generator-produced PDF is a safer bet at the counter than a pen-and-paper template.

What to bring to the DMV

What the clerk asks for depends on your state and your sale — some states do not require a bill of sale at all when the signed title carries the transfer. Expect some or all of the following:

  • The original title, signed by the seller on the assignment line (back of title)
  • The bill of sale, if your state or your situation calls for one — signed by both parties and notarized if your state requires it
  • A valid government photo ID for the buyer
  • Proof of insurance in the buyer's name for the vehicle being registered
  • An odometer disclosure statement, if the state uses a separate form (most states allow the bill of sale to serve this function if it contains the disclosure)
  • A lien release, if the seller had a loan on the vehicle that was paid off
  • Payment for sales/use tax and registration fees — call or check the DMV website for accepted payment methods; not every office takes credit cards
  • Proof of emissions or safety inspection, in states that require one before registration

"Do I need to notarize my bill of sale for the DMV?"

In most states, no — a standard bill of sale without notarization is perfectly acceptable. A small number of states do require it, and the lists circulating online are wider than the real rule: Louisiana accepts one notarized document — the bill of sale, the invoice or the title assignment; West Virginia requires a notarized bill of sale only when the price falls well below book value; and North Dakota's notarized bill of sale (SFN 2888) is used only when no title can be provided. In Kentucky, North Carolina (NC titles), Ohio, Pennsylvania and Wyoming the notarization attaches to the title assignment rather than the bill of sale, and Oklahoma notarizes a paper title's assignment or Form 718 for an electronic title. Montana, often listed as a notary state, requires none for an ordinary private sale. Narrower cases exist too: Honolulu (Hawaii) requires a notarized bill of sale when the recorded owner has not released the title; Arizona’s Form 38-1306, used instead of the signed title, must be notarized or acknowledged by an MVD agent; Maryland used a notarized bill of sale for some below-book-value sales until September 30, 2026; and Washington requires the buyer’s title application to be notarized unless it is signed in front of a vehicle licensing agent. Specific transfer types can add requirements elsewhere, so confirm on your state page.

If you're in a state that doesn't require it, notarization is still never a mistake. It strengthens the document if ownership is ever challenged. For the states that do require it, your nearest bank or UPS Store is usually the quickest option.

A state-specific bill of sale in under a minute

Every template on this site is designed to pass the clerk's scan on the first try. They include the full federal odometer disclosure, notarization blocks where the state requires them, matching state-specific tax language, and the signature lines DMV clerks are trained to look for. Generating one takes under a minute and the PDF prints cleanly on standard 8.5" × 11" paper.

Generate a state-specific bill of sale

Includes an odometer disclosure section. No signup.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is a DMV bill of sale?
A DMV bill of sale is a document that records a private vehicle sale and is accepted by your state's DMV as proof of the transaction when transferring the title. It must include the buyer and seller's full names and addresses, the vehicle's VIN, year, make and model, the odometer reading, the sale price, the date of sale, and signatures from both parties. Some states have their own official DMV bill of sale form (like California REG 135 or Georgia Form T-7) that can be used alongside or instead of a generic template.
Do I need a bill of sale to transfer a car title at the DMV?
It depends on the state. Some states require a bill of sale for every private sale, many require one only in some situations (for example when the price is not written on the title), and others accept the signed title alone. Where it is used, the DMV relies on the bill of sale to verify the sale price (which determines the sales or use tax you owe), confirm the vehicle description matches the title, and record the odometer reading. Even where it is not required, a bill of sale protects both buyer and seller. Some states also require their own forms in addition to the signed title — Texas, for example, requires its title application, Form 130-U.
Which states require their own DMV bill of sale form?
Several states require or strongly prefer their own official DMV forms for vehicle transfers: Texas uses Form 130-U (its title application, not a bill of sale), California uses REG 135 for some transfers, Florida uses HSMV 82050 (the seller's notice of sale, which can also serve as the bill of sale), New York uses its MV-912 bill of sale plus DTF-802 for sales tax purposes, and Georgia uses Form T-7 (or another bill of sale) for untitled 1985-or-older vehicles. Even in these states, generating a detailed bill of sale alongside the official form is recommended as a backup record.
Does a DMV bill of sale need to be notarized?
Notarization is required in a minority of states, and the exceptions are narrower than commonly listed. Louisiana accepts one notarized document — the bill of sale, the invoice or the title assignment; West Virginia requires a notarized bill of sale only when the price falls well below book value; North Dakota’s notarized bill of sale (SFN 2888) is used only when no title can be provided; Kentucky, North Carolina (NC titles), Ohio, Pennsylvania and Wyoming attach notarization to the title assignment instead, and Oklahoma notarizes a paper title’s assignment or Form 718 for an electronic title. Montana, often listed as a notary state, requires none for an ordinary private sale. Narrower cases exist too: Honolulu (Hawaii) requires a notarized bill of sale when the recorded owner has not released the title; Arizona’s Form 38-1306, used instead of the signed title, must be notarized or acknowledged by an MVD agent; Maryland used a notarized bill of sale for some below-book-value sales until September 30, 2026; and Washington requires the buyer’s title application to be notarized unless it is signed in front of a vehicle licensing agent. Other transfer types can add conditions, so confirm on your state page. Even where not required, notarization strengthens the document if ownership is ever disputed.
What happens if my bill of sale is rejected at the DMV?
If your bill of sale is rejected, the clerk will tell you what is missing or incorrect. The most common reasons are: missing or illegible VIN (must match the title exactly), no odometer disclosure for a vehicle of model year 2011 or newer, blank sale price, missing signature from buyer or seller, or missing notarization in a state that requires it. You will need to correct the document, get both parties to re-sign, and return to the DMV. If the seller is no longer accessible, this can become a significant problem — which is why it is better to generate a complete, correct document before the sale.
How long do I have to bring a bill of sale to the DMV after buying a car?
Title transfer deadlines vary significantly by state. Common deadlines include: 10 days (California), 15 days (Arizona, Michigan), 30 days (Florida, New York, Oregon, Texas, Virginia), 45 days (Wyoming), and 60 days (Colorado). Some states count business days instead (Georgia: 7 business days to register after a private sale), and some set no fixed day count at all. Missing the deadline results in late fees and sometimes penalties. In Ontario, Canada, the deadline is only 6 days. Always check your specific state's deadline and aim to complete the transfer as soon as possible after the sale.

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